Our roving big wave ambassador Chris Bertish recently paddled out on his ace to hook a few at feared big wave break “Cribber” in the UK. This simple deed worked everyone up into a lather in the land of lace and rolled up trousers.
Chris was clueless as to what the fuss was about.
A long and winding road to take off.
Big drop with large lipped roof
Can he make this wave?
Dispatches from the front line (up)
Howzit Spike …
Ha Ha Ha!
You wouldn’t believe how this whole thing got so-o-o-o blown out of proportion here. I still can’t believe it! This spot never gets surfed. People talk about it ALL the time, but like many places, that’s all they do, talk!
I have watched it and studied it every time it got to any possible size of breaking. It is very fickle and needs all the right elements to come into play at the same time, especially tide … and swell! It’s about a kilometre out in the ocean off this headland and that is half the sketchiness about it – a lot of water moving out there and no line up. You know, the normal deal.
Well, that day was a Friday morning and I saw it breaking from my window as I was about to leave for work. My appointment by chance cancelled. So lucky. I called my Sales Manager and asked if I could get the morning off, he agreed. Had to go borrow a board. It’s not easy to find a board over 8′ in Newquay. Paddled out on my ace, on some 8′ 6″ I borrowed at a shop, using my normal 8mm leash, not a big wave leash. It was very sketchy.
But I surfed for about 2½ hours on my ace, and it was unreal. Wind came up so I started paddling in when I noticed a bunch of people on the cliffs watching. Like 30 or more people. I thought something had happened or someone was lost at sea.
When I got in I realized they had been watching me surf! Ha ha ha, what a laugh! Couldn’t believe it … By lunchtime I had magazines and newspapers calling me from all over the country. I was like, you gotta be kidding, it wasn’t anything that spectacular … Next day it was on headline news on national television. I was in five newspapers across the country. Even a front page!
What a laugh … I just went surfing like I would back home … I think what made it worse, was everybody was saying how insane it was and I was just mellow about it … no fuss, just went surfing … Some guy wants to buy the board off me for 800 quid and for me to sign it so it can go in his bar.